The Whaleback is viewed from Hall Beach south of Leland, with Pyramid Point in the background.

One of Leelanau County’s more famous geographical landmarks is known as The Whaleback.

Jutting out into Lake Michigan just south of Leland, the Whaleback was so named for obvious reasons. When viewed from the north or south along the shoreline or just offshore, the geological formation is shaped much like a beached whale, with its head pointing west into the lake.

Technically, The Whaleback is a moraine, having been formed by earth and stones deposited there by a glacier. Specifically, The Whaleback is a drumlin, defined as “a long, oval mound of boulder clay molded by glacial action.”

Hikers on Whaleback trail

Geologists estimate the formation was deposited there during an Ice Age more than 10,000 years ago. Portions of The Whaleback still bear signs of erosion that occurred before vegetation took hold.

“There are a lot of drumlins in our part of the state,” said Bill Peyton of Empire. “But most of the drumlins are located north of here and inland, around Elk Rapids, Torch Lake and up toward Petoskey. Having a drumlin like this right on the lakeshore is kind of unique.”

A real estate agent and a builder, Peyton happens to hold a degree in geology. But he’s also been involved in selling and developing residential lots on a portion of the land comprising The Whaleback.

Currently, at least two property owners who control large acreage on The Whaleback are attempting to sell and develop residential lots. Ten homesites have been approved on the south side of The Whaleback, and seven have been approved on the north side. A 40-acre parcel in between the two developments is owned by The Leelanau Conservancy.

“The private land owner I’m representing has limited the number of building lots that will be available, and there are many restrictions,” Peyton said.

In addition to offering lots for sale, Peyton will also be the builder. So far only one of the two-plus acre lots in the 7-lot development has sold, however.

“The fact that these properties back up to Leelanau Conservancy land is a big selling point,” Peyton added.

The Conservancy’s executive director, Brian Price, said he has been especially gratified that the Leelanau Conservancy has been able to preserve a 40-acre natural area on The Whaleback.

“It’s nice to know that the forest along the top of the Whaleback will remain intact forever despite the increasing pressure of development,” Price said. “We take some satisfaction in at least knowing that not all of the The Whaleback will be developed.”

In addition to the 40 acres of conservancy property open to the public, the Conservancy has also protected a 21-acre parcel between The Whaleback and the privately owned Indiana Woods property through a conservation easement.

In fact, one of the Conservancy’s first land protection projects involved a conservation easement on 106 acres of Indiana Woods property. Price noted that the land now provides an uninterrupted wildlife corridor through the woods along much of the shoreline south of Leland.

In 1994, the Conservancy acquired half of its interest in the 40-acre Whaleback property, purchasing the remainder in 1995. In addition, there is a 30-foot-wide easement for the conservancy’s trail from Whaleback Mountain Road to its natural area atop the Whaleback.

The trail is a scenic but physically challenging hike up a steep slope to a flat 3/4 mile hilltop loop. There is an information kiosk at the trailhead; and benches are located along the trail.

The Conservancy has built an observation deck on the bluff overlooking Lake Michigan. A view from the deck reveals just how fragile the bluff is. Erosion has made it difficult for plants and trees to thrive on parts of the bluff where gravel and sand run down to the lakeshore. Signs – and rough terrain – discourage visitors from attempting to access the lakeshore from atop the Whaleback.

“There’s something about the symmetry of the Whaleback that is particularly appealing to a great many people,” Price said. “Underneath, it’s just a jumbled up pile of glacial debris. But for many people – including myself – just seeing The Whaleback makes them feel like they’re home.”