What was old has become new again at the Leland Lodge — and fresh.
“Our menu has completely changed, and it will reflect the freshest ingredients we can get every day,” said John Sisson, who at the tender age of 71 has jumped head-first back into the restaurant business.
Linda and John Sisson, who are known for their homemade specialties served up at the Leelanau Country Inn from 1984-2005, are back at it. John has been hired as food and beverage manager by the Leland Lodge, and Linda can be found in the kitchen creating dishes that take a legion of fans back to the traditions of the Leelanau Country Inn.
Think chocolate decadent cake and cream cheese, pecan and coconut carrot cake straight from Linda’s recipes.
“It’s what I’ve been doing for 50 years,” said John Sisson, whose cuisine career includes managing some of the fanciest seafood restaurants in the Midwest. “(Leland Lodge general manager Brian Glynn) made the request, we had a short discussion, and I’m having a ball. Linda’s in the kitchen right now making desserts. They are all homemade from scratch.”
The Sissons and the Leland Lodge are steeped in the culinary history of Leelanau County.
Linda’s mother, Lucille Bach — whose maiden name is Bardenhagen — worked at the Falling Waters Lodge and what is known today as The Cove Restaurant, both along the Leland River. She was a soughtafter caterer of private events, working out of her home kitchen.
A search online will turn up copies for sale of the “Leelanau Country Inn Cookery: Food and Wine from the Land of Delight.” The authors are Linda and John Sisson, who ran a retail business in Leland featuring their revered salad dressings and other goodies for a few years after closing the inn. John then worked at The Merc for the past 6 1/2 years.
The Leelanau Country Inn has morphed into the Little Traverse Inn, a British-themed pub and B-and-B in Cleveland Township owned by Graeme and Michelle Leask.
The Leland Lodge — the largest employer in the village — was built in 1909 as the Nicholas Hotel until a devastating fire struck in 1926. It was rebuilt the following summer and opened as “The New Nicholas Hotel,” and was eventually named the Leland Lodge. When the business ran into rough economic times in 2012, Andy and Jim Lutz joined with Randall Mays, all of Texas, stepped in to ensure the Lodge continued to serve the community.
“They are committed to serving Leland year-round. I could make the case that the hotel could close in winter like the others, but the owners are committed to providing a first-class, year-round experience,” Glynn said.
Glynn, a minority owner who has run five-star hotels in Boston and San Francisco, considers the Lodge as a guest house first with its 18 rooms and three cottages. That concept is being challenged.
“We have the highest-rated hotel in the county, and the reason to bring John in is to have the finest restaurant,” Glynn said. “Word has gotten out that John is back. We expect it to be a tough table to get in the summer.”
An uptick is noticeable, Glynn continued, with reservations recommended. The 46-seat inside restaurant filled for Valentine’s Day dinner. Outside dining will increase capacity when spring and summer arrive.
While former restaurant manager Tony West left to begin his own eating venture named Locals Lake Leelanau, notable staff members stayed on at the Lodge. They include Christian Doran, who was appointed executive chef in the fall by Glynn, and head bartender Luke Wiesen. He’s responsible for a series of libations named “Luke’s Creations.”
You’ll likely also run into John Sisson, whose high-energy persona has not been tempered by age.
“He’s the first one here and the last one to leave,” Glynn said.
Added John, “I don’t think there are too many rocking chairs in my future. My mother made a comment years ago that John came out running and he hasn’t slowed down. People come in here and remember the Country Inn and are excited. Mainly it’s that everything is made from scratch instead of coming out of a box.”
