Martha Ryan and her iconic beret will no longer be greeting guests at the restaurant that bears her name.
Martha’s Leelanau Table in Suttons Bay has been sold to a married couple who grew up in suburban Detroit and now live much of the year in Fairfax County, Virginia.
“We will continue Martha’s the way it has been for years,” said Justin Messer, who with his wife, Bethany, purchased the restaurant from Ryan and her co-owners Bruce and Judy Balas. “We want to give it a shot to keep Martha’s as a unique thing in Suttons Bay.”
Ryan has been involved in the food service industry for years. Her first position, as food service director at Leland Public School, began in 1982.
“I fell into that,” she said. “It was for an assistant position. And the night before school started Gene Karrow (then superintendent) called me to say that (the director) had quit… He said, ‘I’ve got some hot dogs, you’ll be fine.’”
Ryan did just fine. In fact, she served as the food service director there until 2002.
Five years later, she and the Balases started Martha together. Martha’s opened July 3, 2008.
“We started as a bakery/cafe with breakfast and lunch… I made beignets once a week and sent out huge bags to people in the community,” Ryan recalled.
One of the most popular menu items was the “Happy Rooster” — Italian toast with pesto, bacon, tomato and two over medium eggs, topped with arugula tossed in a shallot vinaigrette.
The restaurant had no liquor license at the time but added a dinner menu once this was received.
Martha’s offered a cookbook series, offering entrees taken directly from best selling cookbooks.
Foodies also took part in cooking classes, working in the kitchen with menu items, which culminated in a family-style meal.
“It was something that got us through the slow winter months,” Ryan said.
